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February 08, 2007

Developing Yerevan


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Yerevan 2006, photo by Vahan Bego

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Vahan:

Parts of Yerevan are now indistinguishable from other globalized cities - when standing in some streets you could be anywhere, Berlin, LA, wherever. But some new buildings have a distinctly Armenian feel or style.


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The Place Where Lovers Meet


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Coffee Seller


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Bicycle Repairs


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Vahan:

One of the best things about Yerevan is that you can find a drinking fountain every ten meters or so. Can you imagine how good it is to have free water when it's 45 degrees? And a lot of fountains are also exquisite sculptures!


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Photos by Vahan Bego, 2006




Links

Officials seize the center of Yerevan






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February 07, 2007

Soviet Yerevan


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Yerevan 2006, photo by Vahan Bego

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Commieblock Housing Estates


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Vahan:


Armenian commieblocks are slightly different from the concrete monstrosities that can be found in former Communist Bloc countries - they are embellished with tuff. Tuff is predominantly pink, but it comes in all sorts of shades - red, orange, yellow - so this means the blocks are not quite so uniform and have some connection with the ground they stand on. The way these blocks were made, it's like building with lego - one slab on top of another. In Armenia, they used to put fragments and scraps of tuff on the concrete slabs while they were still wet, then cart them off and stick them together on a block.


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Drying Sheepskins


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Bread Kiosk


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Bottle Stall


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The Edge of the City (and location of Vahan's old studio)


Public Works


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Ministry Buildings, photo by Serge


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Broken Down Bus


Photos by Vahan Bego 2006, except Ministry Buildings at Night, by Serge




Links

Yerevan's Winter Disaster Zone

Communist Blocks

Falowiec in Gdansk


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Glimpses of Old Yerevan


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Yerevan 2006, photo by Vahan Bego

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Mount Ararat, photo by Aram, 2007


When Argishti chose the spot for the fortress of Erebuni in the 8th century BC, he showed good aesthetic and tactical judgment. Surrounded on three sides by mountains, including the majestic stratovolcano of Mount Ararat, the inhabitants of Yerevan have always had a breathtaking natural monument to wake up to and take their bearings from. Yerevan's strategic significance is evidenced by the succession of peoples who fought over and occupied the city in their bid to impose their wills upon the region : the Romans, Arabs, Persians, Seljuk Turks, Tamerlane, Ottomans and Russians. Because of the pillage, incessant conflict and instability, Yerevan did not develop much beyond being 'a garrison town of mud-brick and gardens' until the 19th century.

Wikipedia:

During the second Russian-Persian war, Yerevan was liberated by Russian troops under Ivan Paskevich on 1 October 1827. It was formally ceded by the Persians in 1828. Following the Treaty of Turkamanchai, Tsarist Russia sponsored Armenian resettlement from Persia and Turkey; by the turn of the twentieth century, Yerevan's population was over 29,000, of which 49% were Azerbaijani (described by Russian sources as "Azerbaijani Tatars"), 48% Armenian and 2% Russian.

The city began to grow economically and politically, with old buildings torn down and new buildings in European style erected in their place. In 1829, Armenian repatriates from Persia were resettled in the city and a new quarter was built.

The first general plan of the city was made in 1854, during which time the womens' colleges of St. Hripsime and St. Gayane were opened and the English Garden built. In 1874, Zacharia Gevorkian opened Yerevan's first printing house and in 1879 the first theatre, sited near the church of St. Peter and Paul, was established. Two years into the twentieth century, a railway line linked Yerevan with Alexandropol, Tiflis and Julfa, the same year Yerevan's first public library opened.

The European style buildings mostly disappeared after the Soviets finally took control of Yerevan in 1921 and began turning it into an industrial metropolis. The remnants of pre-Soviet Yerevan are dilapidated and scarred, but they offer glimpses...


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Beauty Salon


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The Gök-Jami ("Blue Mosque"), the largest mosque in Yerevan and the only one that survived the Soviet period.



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From Armeniapedia:
The largest mosque of Yerevan and only one still preserved, the Gyoy or Gök-Jami, (gök means "sky-blue" in Turkish - more commonly known as the Blue Mosque) was built in AH 1179 or AD 1765/6 by the command of local ruler Hussein Ali-Khan to be the main Friday mosque. The mosque portal and minaret were decorated with fine tile work. The central court had a fountain, with cells and other auxiliary building around it, and stately elm trees. There was an adjoining hamam and school. In Soviet times, the mosque housed the Museum of the City of Yerevan. In the mid-1990s, the powerful Iranian quasi-statal foundation for religious propagation agreed to fund a total restoration of the mosque with shiny new brick and tile. This restoration, structurally necessary but aesthetically ambiguous, was largely finished in 1999. However, Armenian authorities, torn between the need to placate a powerful neighbor and desire to minimize the practice of an unpopular religion, have been slow to bless the reconsecration of the complex as a mosque, suggesting it should serve as a cultural center instead.


All photos by Vahan Bego, 2006, except Mount Ararat, by Aram, 2007





Links

This historic landmark is being torn down





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February 05, 2007

Yerevan - Kond


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Kond, Yerevan 2006, photo by Vahan Bego

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Vahan:

Kond is a city within a city, a kind of enclave. Kond means 'pole' and maybe the neighborhood takes its name from all the poles that punctuate its streets. Kond is a kind of slum area, but it's very unique. Normally slums are found on the peripheries of cities, they spread out from the edge. But Kond is slapbang in the center of Yerevan, just a two-minute walk away from where all the development is going on. Kond is where you can get a sense of what old Yerevan was like. It has an odd beauty, even though the amenities are scandalous. Some of the buildings date back to the seventeenth century, and you can see how buildings have been carved out of other buildings, how newer buildings have been built on top of older ones. Kond is a problem for the authorities. Even the communists - who were not exactly timid when it came to urban planning - didn't know what to do with Kond. It has just been left alone. Kond can a bit dangerous for outsiders - there are criminal elements here. But basically its an enclave, the people from Kond are proud, they keep themselves to themselves. Like I say, a city within a city.


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All photos by Vahan Bego 2006





Links

Photographs of Kond by Onnik Krikorian

Onnik Krikorian's photos on Flickr

An article on Kond by Mariam Stepanyan from hetq online






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